On Leaving Korea

It's been a little over a week since I left Korea for what might be the last time. After a year of friends, adventures, and randomness, it was hard to say goodbye.

My last night there was exceptionally perfect, though: Galbi tong with Linsey, Elizabeth, Sascha, and Moon, followed by a brief fairwell with Andy. I was going to crawl back to my miserable internetless room and finish packing when Kevin (another coworker and friend) called me out to drink with my replacements and him at a local Ministop (a kind of convenience store like 7-11). He offered me company and some soju that I couldn't refuse, and the packing turned into drunken 1am packing and 1hour of sleep before the bus to Seoul. The unexpectedness of the evening was the perfect way for the year to end.

Now I'm currently traveling down Vietnam. I've been here for 10 days, and I've seen the most amazing scenery I've ever beheld with my own two eyes. Strangely here Korea doesn't seem that far away. A woman at the hotel I'm staying in mistook me for a Korean woman (?!?!?!?!?!?), and Elizabeth and I ate breakfast to the sounds of KPoP blarring on the equivalent of Vietnamese MTV.

Honestly, I'm not certain what the rest of this trip will bring. We'll be heading out to Cambodia and Malaysia, and then I'll be doing some solo travleing in Singapore. Beyond that is the overwhelming states and my state of unemployment, but right now I do know that I'm happy and extremely thankful for this past year.

Saul is My Korean Hero a.k.a. The Great Sea Food Adventure

I came to Korea craving experiences. The longer I spent here, the more options I realized I had. The most notable options came with the variety of different foods.

In Korea, there is a dish called sannakji. A living octopus is cut up, and served in sesame oil still squirming. Apparently there is a potential risk of death, as the tentacles can suction onto the back of someone's throat if it is not properly chewed. This strange dish, despite my distaste for octopus, quickly made it on to my to do list. 

On June 20, 2009, I successfully completed what would become Part I of the Great Seafood Challenge: surviving eating the seafood.

Although surprisingly tasty, Part II of the adventure was not a culinary treat, but an aquatic venture into the unknown. That Saturday I went forth with a new seafood challenge: survive being eaten. The Busan Aquarium regularly offers shark diving expeditions. For 95,000 won, you too can risk your life and possibly be dinner.

After the first question we were asked was, "Is anyone menstruating?" and two of us answered yes, you'd think there might have been some hesitation on our part. Alas, three crazy waygooks and a wonderful Korean man named Saul decided to swim with the fishies anyway. 

Why is Saul my hero, you may ask, since he obviously wasn't one of the menstruating women? Well, we needed a group of five people for an English lesson, but Saul called and magically four was okay.  It turned out that this was because our guide was to be Korean, and Saul was to be our translator. Saul was terrified, but he went because he felt obligated to translate. Had we known we would be without English, we probably would have been even more terrified. But Saul is amazing, because out of the 10+ Koreans we asked, he was the only man brave enough to follow through. 

All Quiet on the Southern Front

A South Korean Soldier in the JSA

On Monday I received a call from my father, telling me to hang up while he had my grandmother call me. My grandmother, well known for her eccentricities, had apparently been losing sleep over North Korea's recent press. I use the word "apparently", but really the whole situation was anything but. Here in the south, very little anxiety or concern has been felt over North Korea's new stance on US or SKs involvement in their nuclear testing. Is there a threat? It's hard to say.

Four weeks ago, I visited North Korea. I stood on North Korean soil, took a picture of a North Korean soldier, and bought some barbed wire at the gift shop. I paid in American money.

South Korea has made one of Seoul's (even though the site is really 30min outside of Seoul) largest attractions the DMZ. There you can see the third infiltration tunnel (click the link, it'll explain far more than I will before my bedtime), and voyage into the JSA. The JSA is closed to many nationalities, including the South Korean civilians. As a US citizen, though, I got a guided tour, complete with three separate stops to three separate gift stores. Among the stores' wares are pieces of DMZ barbed wire, T-shirts, and authentic Korean handicrafts. 

I definitely did not feel like I was standing on the border of two warring countries. Instead, it felt more like I was visiting South of the Border, a tourist trap between North and South Carolina. 

Outside the third infiltration tunnel, we watched a video. The video condemned the North Korean propaganda machines that once blasted the south with messages of "Never pay taxes again, come to North Korea". While the video condemned the North, it nonetheless broadcasted its own message of harmony between the two nations in such an idealistic way that it was laughable. The video included a little girl running with butterflies and talked about the "extinct" animals alive at the DMZ. It made no mention of the land mines. 

In conclusion, to all of you reading this in the US, I went to North Korea. No, not the real North Korea- the touristy kind with cafeterias, and world peace statues. North Korea was a good time, and that's what South Korea wants me to think. They don't want me running off to live there mind you, but they want the people living in South Korea to be at ease. The truth is, that the South and the North have been at war for almost 60 years. People can't live in a state of constant fear, so the government doesn't play up every tantrum North Korea has.  Is North Korea a real threat? Absolutely. Is it more of a threat this week? Maybe, but either way, noone here seems worried.

Kaesong: North Korea's Propaganda Village, and an Industrial Tie to the South 

How April Got Washed Away

April has always been my favorite month. Children love the month they're born, because of all of the parties and presents, so I never like admitting my birthday and my favorite month are the same. I feel childish, and perhaps I am.

April's appeal does have to do with festivities for me, but the ones of spring and not of me. As the sunlight comes back, I begin to have a social life again. People fill my world, and I'm happy (except for the times I'd rather be sleeping). Each year, as if by clockwork, even in Asia, my birthday always marks the leaves on the trees opening. It's the greatest gift I can imagine, and the build up is great too.

Asia is world famous for its cherry trees. In the beginning of April, there is one of the most beautiful cherry blossom festivals at Jinhae. The snow flowers have all of the beauty of snow, and the warmth of spring. It's an awe inspiring site that literally made me teary eyed. The Japanese planted the trees before they left, and it's a bittersweet festival in that such beauty came from such atrocities as the Japanese inflicted on the Korean people and land. The Japanese war crimes were heinous, and the Japanese made certain the Koreans would never forget them. The trees serve as a sickeningly beautiful reminder of the past, but they are also a beacon of hope. Just as the Koreans survived the Japanese rule, so too do the trees survive the winter each year to bloom brilliantly for the world.

The Japanese destroyed a large portion of original Korean artifacts and buildings. They burned, pillaged, and raped. Yet, one thing they did not destroy was ancient history. Not ancient Korean history per se, but prehistory. On the coast of Geosong are the footprints of dinosaurs forever in the rock. Now stands a museum, with a large variety of different dinosaur fossils, amusement park rides, and awesome dinosaur shaped paddle boats. The dinosaur park was definitely one of the joys of this April for me.

In addition to weekend trips to cherry blossoms, and dinosaurs, I made frequent visits to Busan and began walking around Changwon more. I'm really loving the warm weather, and looking forward to these next few months.

Beaches, Dancing, and Bullfighting

I've decided that the size of Korea is perfect. It's perfect, because a day trip consistently brings new and exciting adventures. Last weekend consisted of a walk on the beach, followed by dancing at a club in Busan called Foxy (yes, it was REAL dancing to hiphop and reggae music). The following day it was off to the countryside for a Korean bullfighting festival in Cheongdo. While there were no matadors, instead the bulls just locked horns and butted heads for ten minute bouts of testosterone, it definitely offered something I've never seen before. Variety is something I just can't seem to get enough of, and Korea seems to be providing.

Hot Dogs with Whip Cream Juseyo

I believe I've mentioned that Korea's take on Western food is never exactly what Western food was meant to be. From pickles with pizza, to duc (rice cakes) in spaghetti, there's always an interesting twist. This weekend's culinary surprise was particularly unique.

Elizabeth and I ventured to Gyeongju (the capital of Korea during the Shilla dynasty). I'd been to Gyeongju once before to visit Shilla Millenium Park. At the park I saw a pretty cool water and land show, and was able to make some pretty fantastic jewelry- yes MAKE and buy. This visit proved a little bit less fun. We walked around ancient tombs (large hills) and saw the oldest observatory in the east (the pictures make it look bigger), but yet our dinner made it still worth the trip.

On our quest for samgipsal (bbq pork belly), we encountered a waffle house. A "combination waffle" and a blurry looking picture caught our eye. We decided to share in this curiosity. Little could we have expected the "combination".  We were given a waffle with chocolate sauce and powdered sugar. On the waffle were two large pieces of canadian bacon (or maybe Korean bacon ::shruggs::); three hot dogs; a fried egg; a salad consisting of lettuce, strawberries, bananas, and salad dressing; whipcream; and sweet pickles. 

Below are the pictures of the meal. Bon Appetit!

The Flight of the Canadians

I've read many horror stories about the Korean experience, but only recently did I have any practical experience with them. At the beginning of March, the new school year began bringing Kid's Club four new teachers. Three teachers arrived on a Monday, and the school forced them into a painful day of jet lagged work just after they'd gotten off of the plane. The school was disorganized and chaotic, but it quickly got worse. Two days after arriving, the couple from Canada made a midnight run back to the magical land of maple leaves-without leaving so much as a note. 

I'm rather angry with the whole situation, as it's stripped me of any and all breaks. The school didn't handle things well, and the Canadians handled things worse. I now know that midnight runs aren't myths, and that employers really will force people into a full day of labor right off an airplane. I've also learned that there are some things it's better not to experience first hand.

Korea's Changes

A few people asked me what I was graduating from that I was, well, endowed with a graduation gift. I have graduated from nothing, but my Korean kindergarteners have all moved on to elementary school. The new school year starts in March, and starting Monday I will be teaching completely new children every day. I'm excited about my new class, but sad to see my students go. I hate goodbyes, and I'm forced to realize that over half of my time here in Korea has already passed. 

Yet, time passing isn't all bad. On July 16th 2008, I wrote that Gimbap is one of the worst foods I've ever had, but somewhere in the past 7 months it's become my new favorite food. I eat it for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and it's only a 2,000 won meal. Truly remarkable things have happened since arriving in Korea, like my new found love of the color pink. In Korea, most things are shiny and bright and I've decided that my blog will be too.

Sony Angels

Sony Angels. All of the little girls in my class are obsessed with them. Besides the elephant angel pictured above, they also come with various vegetable hats and other animals. They're cute, but obsession worthy? Only after receiving one as a graduation present yesterday did it start to make sense.

It's a boy!!!!! Mazel tov.

Adventure

A hectic work schedule and tightening purse strings was leading me deeper and deeper into a dark pit of doom until a few weeks ago (it didn't quite look like the picture (it was a lot darker)). The stagnation produced more stagnation until I realized I hadn't gone anywhere in weeks and I was slowly starting to wonder if my trip to Asia was worth the mental journey or the airfare when it happened.

There was a sudden brilliance before the tunnel, when Elizabeth and I realized that Korea is so small we can take a day trip to almost anywhere in the country. We slept in Saturday (sleep had also been something I was feeling deprived of) and met at the bus terminal. We chose the bus departing at the nearest time, and were suddenly headed towards GwanJu (having no idea what direction the city was in or what was there).  What we found was adventure and happiness.

After a long walk down a river path (and some lecherous looks from old Korean men), we magically ended up in the downtown area of the city. There we found the singularly best drinking establishment I have ever been in. The Ethnic Cafe is a fire hazard at its very best, with hundreds of candles sitting and hanging around a center pool. Curtains form alcoves of pillows for lovers to nestle and adventurers to drink cold red wine (it seems impossible to find wine served at room temperature in this country). 

Since my journey down those candle lit stairs, my heart has beat a little faster, I've smiled a bit more, and life has become more enjoyable. The weather is warming and more journeys into unexplored basements will soon be at hand.

Happy New Year

Some of the boys practicing the proper way to bow- before all sixty children bowed down to me and the other foreign teachers. 

Often called Chinese New Year, the Lunar New Year is also shared by a number of other Asian cultures including my new neighbors the Koreans. The Chinese receive the credit for this holiday probably because of their elaborate parades and alternative views on dragons. Korea's celebration is far less ornamental. It involves bowing to one's ancestors, eating rice cake soup, washing the old year off with some soap, and a couple of good games of Yoot. Yes, Yoot here is more than just a wonderful My Cousin Vinny  joke. It's a great board game  involving sticks used as die, and rocks for place markers (we used pompoms at school for their aesthetic value). The game is quite fun, and often played by the Korean youth (with an emphasis on the "th") as part of the Korean Lunar New Year celebration.

With no ancestors on this side of the world to bow to, friends and I decided to go north on a snow adventure. We went to Hyundai Sungwoo Ski Resort. There I saw my first real snow of the year, and successfully navigated the many turns and hills of the intermediate level slopes (not bad for my 2nd time on skis). We also explored a winter wonderland, complete with ice sculptures of Egypt (Korea really does have almost everything- well, except the REAL sphinx), and an almost-bobsled run. And the best part of the new year- it started out with a four day weekend. :-)

Gretchen Outside King Tut's Tomb

My First Twenty-Eighth Birthday

Sometime in 2008 I was transported to the future, and I didn't realize how jet lagged I was until my twenty eighth birthday.

At 12am on January 1st, 2009, I watched people ring a bell in Seoul with a giant hammer. I was nestled warmly in my bed (I'm old now, so I'm allowed to have low key New Years Eves), when it occurred to me that I was magically 28 (even though my birthday is in April). Since this realization, nothing has been the same. 

My father got me a beautifully modern Canon Digital Rebel xsi for Christmas. Eric brought it with him on the plane, and brought much joy to my picture taking. Sadly though, my Digital Elph (Canon Powershot) was a few years behind the times. In Seoul, the tiny camera decided to spontaneously combust. There are currently two competing theories on the combustion: 1. The time travel had a delayed, but powerful side effect on the tiny and delicate elph. 2. The elph was overcome with jealousy for my newer, bigger, fancier toy, and took its own life. No matter which theory you subscribe to, it just adds to the chilling feeling that time is moving more quickly than I'm prepared to accept. 

After my camera's tragic suicide, I decided to try to make time stand still to the best of my ability. I took as many photos as I could (without my fingers going numb from the chilling cold of Seoul), and tried my best to live in the moment. Unfortunately, there is no escaping the aging process, and the snow boarding pics speak for themselves. I'm so old that I couldn't even stand by myself without falling down.    ;-)

But at least a few questions are answered about the future world.

1.In the future (or at least in Korea) it is common for people to celebrate New Year's Day by watching the sun rise on the beach.

2.My boyfriend cannot iceskate or snowboard now or in the future. 

3.The future has a huge market for food chemists. Only yesterday did I discover pizza flavored rice puffs, which far surpassed the salad flavored potato chips in quality.  

4. Technology continues to get better.

5. Despite global warming, winter sports continue to have mass appeal (which really sucks for Eric).

6. You don't have to understand a movie's language to laugh a lot at bad acting.